A walk on the beaches

Today I had a 12km / 7.5 mile walk around Barra's finest beaches, Traigh Mhor, Traigh Cille-Bharra, Traigh Sgurabhal and Traigh Eais.

The photo never lies they say, but it can tell only half the story. These photos may look idyllic but the wind was gusting to nearly 60mph all day and walking into it was extremely challenging and effortful, not only because progress was very slow, but also because in many places I was being sand blasted. I was nearly blown off my feet on more than one occasion and just walking in a straight line was a challenge, while all I could hear was the roar of the wind.

Occasionally a shower would pass over, and in a moment I was drenched. Torrential rain for 5 minutes and then it was gone. Of course I don't photograph the rain so you'd never know from the photos.

In truth it's very tough going here on Barra at the moment, everything we do is a struggle with the elements and birding is next to impossible at times. It can be difficult enough to stand up without trying to peer through binoculars at the same time. Often we take the easy option and don't even bother going through the front door of the cottage, it's so tough. However, today I went for a walk on the beach.

Migration has been almost none existant recently, and what few waders there have been seem to have desserted us now. I dont blame them. I saw just a handful of ringed plover, dunlin, sanderling and bar-tailed godwits. All the beaches were more or less devoid of birds.

However, just as I was crossing the sand dunes from Traigh Eais to Traigh Mhor, through the roar of the wind and waves I heard a sound which I thought was my phone. Suddenly, 26 Whooper swans appeared right over my head, quite low down and calling, heading south east. These birds and another flock of 21 that appeared shortly after were in off the sea, the last land they saw was Iceland this morning and they've come to the UK to spend the winter here. They don't stop when they reach Barra, most press on to their wintering grounds in Scotland and of course over 1000 winter in South West Lancs including Martin Mere. 

Also on Traigh Mhor, the first Barnacle geese of the winter freshly arrived today. These birds breed in Greenland, but stop over in Iceland on their way to the UK. 

Seeing these geese and swans flying in off the sea is one of the highlights of the birding year for me.

Edit 05/10/2025: the first 14 whooper swans of the winter arrived at Martin Mere this morning. Amazing to think that these very same birds could have passed over Barra yesterday. 

Barnacle geese having a minute.

Bar-tailed godwits.