Our last day on Orkney and we saved the best until last. We took the eight
seater 15 minute Loganair flight to the remote Orkney island of Papa Westray,
which included a brief stop to offload passengers at the nearby island of
Westray before resuming with the shortest scheduled flight in the world, all
of one minute from Westray to Papa Westray. Beautiful scenery, breathtaking
sandy beaches and turquoise seas and glorious weather. A 10 mile walk around
the island taking in the RSPB reserve at North Hill and the oldest surviving
stone house in northern Europe, Knap of Howar which was occupied 3500BC and is
even older than the houses at Skara Brae which we visited last week and which
make the pyramids and Stonehenge seem like modern developments. I managed to
find my own white-tailed eagle, apparently only the 7th record this year on
the island following no records at all last year, and we visited the monument
to the site of the last great auk nest in the UK.
Coming into land at Papa Westray.
Our plane at Papa Westray airport.
Almost as soon as we stepped off the plane this white-tailed eagle flew past
mobbed by arctic terns. Unfortunately I just wasn't prepared and my camera was
still in my bag, etc.
Our first destination was North Hill RSPB, home to close on 100 pairs of great
and arctic skuas, hundreds of arctic terns and with a wonderful coastline with
black guillmeots everywhere.
If you stick to the footpath around the coast, the arctic skuas will
occasionally half heartedly attack you. However if you try walking away from
the coast they will get far more aggressive.
Bonxies.
I always get excited when I seen wrens on a remote island, but so far as I
know, the birds on Papa Westray are not considered a separate race to those on
the mainland. Maybe one day though...
Surprisingly perhaps, although wrens are quite common on this island, I
haven't seen them anywhere else in the Orkney archipelago.
Eiders.
The last great auk in the UK was killed on St Kilda in 1840, but the last nest
was on Papa Westray in 1813.
Just like on North Ronaldsay, fulmars breed on the ground here, though perhaps
not in quite the numbers.
The Knap of Howar, along with Skara Brae this was the most impressive archeological site we visited in Orkney.
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