To be honest I did have an inkling of what today might bring when I wrote
yesterdays blog post! A birder on yesterdays crossing from Castlebay to Oban
had reported 25 great shearwaters from the ferry between Tiree and Rum, so I
was hopeful that we might also get to see a few of these wonderful ocean
wanderers this morning. Perhaps we'd get lucky, even one bird would suffice,
but as it transpired, today was one of the greatest experiences in my birding
life. Nothing could have prepared me for this spectacle!
It was still dark when MV Isle of Lewis left Castlebay one hour early at 7am.
For the first 30 minutes we sat in the viewing lounge and could see nothing
through the windows except blackness, but then at about 7:40 in the half light
we spotted a couple of auks and at least one shearwater. This immediately
piqued our interest because as I joked to Ray, we'd already seen more than we
had seen on the entire journey out two weeks ago! A slight exaggeration
perhaps, but the fact is, this was the sixth time we had taken this route at
this time of year and virtually all of the previous journeys had been
disappointing with very few sea birds, so these few scraps so early into the
voyage prompted us to go up on deck immediately.
As soon as we arrived on deck we spotted another couple of shearwaters. The
first was definitely sooty but the other seemed to have a white belly but
didn't look like Manx. A few minutes later another bird with a white belly,
this time closer to the boat, and with the light now better we were able to
tentatively identify it as a great shearwater. Then there was another even
closer and this time we could see it's pale collar and dark cap, no doubt
about this one, a definite great shearwater!
Ten minutes later and we'd lost count of great shearwaters! We watched in
wonder as a flock of over 50 approached the rear of the boat and then overtook
us, every one of them a great. And still they came, next a flock of 20 with a
few sooties, and it was still only 8am, just three minutes after sunrise. Over
the next 45 minutes we watched as hundreds of great shearwaters went past the
boat plus many sooties, but only a handful of Manx. We also spotted at least
three large shearwaters lacking the dark cap of greater, clearly Cory's
shearwaters, although the pedantic may comment that they could have been the
much rarer Scopoli's.
The photo above is slightly cropped, in the original there are at least 121 great shearwaters.